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GASHERBRUM, THE LUMINOUS MOUNTAIN

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00:00:18,371 --> 00:00:22,523
In June 1984, the mountaineer
Reinhold Messner organized...

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...an expedition in
the mountains of the Karakorum.

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00:00:26,571 --> 00:00:29,529
Hans Kammerlander, on the right
of the picture, was with him.

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00:00:29,971 --> 00:00:32,531
Their objective: Two summits
in the chain of the Gasherbrums

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all two at few more of
8000 meters of altitude.

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Here is the Gasherbrum 1.

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Gasherbrum means
"THE LUMINOUS MOUNTAIN."

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Their idea was to climb
the two mountains,

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one after the other, without
stopping, without stationary camp

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00:00:48,371 --> 00:00:51,124
and without oxygen, without 
anything other than a backpack.

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Messner already 
climbed them separately.

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Here is the Gasherbrum 2.

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I don't have a true profession.
I didn't learn anything particular.

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I made a lot of things
who take the liberty to live.

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It is everything I need.

16
00:01:11,291 --> 00:01:15,523
I finance my expeditions
thanks to mountaineering equipment.

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I don't need anything else.

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I am very happy
not to have a profession.

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I think that otherwise one renounces
to all creative activity.

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I grew up on a farm
in mountain in the South Tyrol.

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I helped my father
on our small farm.

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My mother died when I was
very young.

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My father was not
of good health.

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Then I worked as a
bricklayer for 5 years

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I also had to 
take care of housework.

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What was the housework?

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The usual works of a
farm, I took care of everything.

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I continue again when me
follow home

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Now, I work
as mountain guide in the summer

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and as a skiing 
professor in the winter.

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And I have a lot of time
in the spring and the fall

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to climb
and to participate in expeditions.

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Our idea was not to
to achieve a movie on mountaineering

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What we wanted to discover
it was what happens...

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in the head of the mountaineers
when they rush in...

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...of the enterprises as extreme.

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00:03:01,971 --> 00:03:06,123
What fascination drives them
to these summits.

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These mountains and these summits
do they not exist at the bottom,

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00:03:08,971 --> 00:03:10,529
in the soul of each
of us?

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Here we are in Skardu in
the north of Pakistan

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the last accessible city
by car or by plane.

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We buy some supplies with
Rozi Ali, carrier and cook

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a friend of Reinhold Messner for
numerous expeditions.

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The selection of the carriers
takes place the following morning.

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Many have participated in the
previous ascensions of Messner.

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Most are the Baltises, of the
mountains of north Pakistan.

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00:07:03,571 --> 00:07:05,527
Just after Skardu,
the road stops.

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00:07:06,571 --> 00:07:10,325
The provisions are brought
by Jeep until Dasso.

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From there until the base camp
there are 150 kilometers on foot.

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The last 60 kilometers
take place on a glacier.

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The camp is going to be set up at
an altitude of about 5000 m.

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After 5 days we
find a place to stop.

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It is a source of water
hot sulfurous,

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the last real bath
for a long time.

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That doesn't look worse
that our other expeditions.

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Of course we don't know
if we will have the strength

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the staying and even the nerves
that we will need.

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Since it has never been attempted,
we lack reference.

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I climbed the 8000 before,

60
00:11:43,971 --> 00:11:47,520
but two 8000 have never
been climbed at one time

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We are some sorts
of guinea pigs. We leave...

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without knowing if we
won't be exhausted.

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00:11:55,971 --> 00:12:01,125
We may become mad
not holding more standing.

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In this case we would be
obligated to come down.

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00:12:05,571 --> 00:12:09,120
Maybe the fact we
have climbed the first summit,

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the desire to win our bet,
will give us

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enough strength and power
to climb the second summit.

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00:12:16,571 --> 00:12:21,520
If we have a lot of luck
and if we are in shape,

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if the conditions of
are ideal,

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if we are in shape
physically and emotionally,

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we can succeed.

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00:12:34,571 --> 00:12:38,530
For soccer players,
the friendship forgets itself on the field.

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You train a team
as the other.

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Is it necessary
to be friends?

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Could speak yourselves 
to this aspect?

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00:12:47,571 --> 00:12:51,530
How long have you 
known each other?

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5 or 6 years,

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since I worked
as a mountain guide

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in his mountaineering school

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We've went on expeditions
together for 3 years.

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Are you close friends?

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I would not say it,
we know each other very well

83
00:13:14,971 --> 00:13:19,920
...and I chose Hans
for this expedition

84
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among all the mountaineers
that I know personally.

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00:13:25,571 --> 00:13:31,123
Hans is one of the only ones
I think that is capable of it.

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I've participated in about
30 expeditions

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and I still choose my partners
in the same way.

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Without being necessarily friends,
I always have 100% confidence

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in the cleverness of the climbers,

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...their intuitive knowledge
of the atmospheric conditions,

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and of the strengths of nature like
the avalanches, the storms.

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I know that they have as much
of that trust in me.

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Otherwise sooner or later
we would have failed.

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One of us would be responsible
for the death of the other.

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Each of us assumes one
personal responsibility.

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There is not an alternative.

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I cannot bring myself
to ask someone...

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to join me without being
sure thathet has it in head.

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We join the glacier to one
altitude of about 4000 m.

100
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The carriers have already collected...

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...the last pieces
of wood for fire.

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All have fear of
what is going to arrive.

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After 10 days of walking
through the throats and the glacier,

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the massages like
this one makes are good.

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Ibrahim is a carrier worker

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and although most of the
others have already left us,

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he wanted to remain with me
a while longer.

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He massaged each of us
during the walk of approach

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and now then before we
go begin the ascension,

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he takes it very seriously.

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Now he pulls
my fingers one by one.

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If I understood right, he
uses his father's technique.

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We are relatively
secure here to the base camp.

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Yes, we are secure.
It is a real pleasure.

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But higher, the dangers
are numerous.

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Just to the over the base camp...

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...there are the hundreds of crevasses.

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A few has one farther
stiff enough partition

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and then, naturally,
there are the storms close to the summit.

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At the time of my lone ascension
in the Nanga Parbat, in 1978,

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I had an incredible luck.

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Now he pulls my
the ears.

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I climbed all day,
relatively quickly

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and I bivouaced
on a s�rac...

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to an altitude of about 6500 m
in a well sheltered place.

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The following morning at 5 o'clock,
I folded the camp,

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there was a light tremor.
I immediately noticed it.

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That instant an incredible
avalanche fell.

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Just below,
an enormous block of s�rac...

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...of the size of one
p�t� of houses...

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detached itself and flew
down into the valley.

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My base camp that I saw...

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...yesterday as one red point,

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...was covered with snow.

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Then the friends at the base
camp told to me that snow...

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...had fallen for one half-hour.

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I had luck
to be awake.

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If it had arrived the eve

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I would have flown off with the avalanche.

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A "classic expedition"
that would like to climb these mountains

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would have to resort to carriers
to transport 1 or 2 tons

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of material and provisions.

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They would have numerous people
with camps at different altitudes.

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The climbers would make
of the displacements

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of a tent to the other,
of a camp to the other, like a pyramid.

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The strongest being able to
then to reach the summit.

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We practice, on the contrary,
an alpine style...

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We have a small tent
and only these clothes.

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If we are too hot, we put
them in our bags

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A fine rope, two picks,

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a special pick
that can stretch out,

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and a pick made of titanium
very light.

153
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And this strange rope?

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It is not a real rope.

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We use it in duplicate
when we insure.

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But we won't use it much.

157
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Each of us is
responsible for himself.

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For the essential us
let's climb without cording.

159
00:20:40,571 --> 00:20:43,131
Can we see the camera
what you carry with you up high?

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We carry a camera with
us, a small Bell and Howell

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in order to shoot the summit and
as testimony of the expedition.

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How many toes
have you lost, Hans?

163
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I have all mine 
thanks to God.

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Me n' lost some again
none because of the frost.

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I have four on one foot,
I lost the other.

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Will be you in radio
contact with the camp?

167
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No, not a radio,
it would be too heavy

168
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anyway no one here
could not come to rescue us.

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It is our risk and if
one doesn't arrive there, it is like that.

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There remains only two
carriers in the camp.

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Rozi Ali, the cook prepares
of the chapati from the flat breads.

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On my 1st exp�dition
himalayenne in 1970 in the Nanga Parbat.

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Of the four participants,
I am the only one still alive.

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A German, Peter Scholz
and Felix Kr�n, an Austrian,

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perished several years after.

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My brother died during
the expedition in the Nanga Parbat.

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Later, in 1972,
I was in the Manaslu, to Nepal...

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a member of the expedition died
of cold weather just under the summit

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and another became mad
and also perished.

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During all these years,
I met some mountaineers,

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I learned two or three years
later than they had died

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...in big expeditions.

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I think that the fact we want
to climb mountains...

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...is a sign of
cerebral degeneration.

185
00:22:42,971 --> 00:22:45,531
So many people that must
to work hard to live,

186
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to cultivate small fields
as mountain people,

187
00:22:48,971 --> 00:22:51,531
they don't think about climbing
on mountains.

188
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They are afraid of the mountains,
of the avalanches, of the storms,

189
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and especially of the torrents
that destroy all.

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My neighbors, in Villn�ss,
continue to tell me that I am mad,

191
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that it doesn't make sense
to climb the mountains,

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00:23:07,971 --> 00:23:10,531
that I could use my
energy for something else

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and they don't have it
completely wrong.

194
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And you, what do you think?

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You think that you are not
quite sound of mind?

196
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I think that all artists,
the creative people, are mad,

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even the art and the creativeness
are shapes of degeneration.

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The fascination animated me
for so long.

199
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The fascination for the altitude.

200
00:23:40,971 --> 00:23:44,520
In the beginning, it 
was only curiosity.

201
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To what that resembles when the zone
is some death higher?

202
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That one feels before
a partition of 5000 meters?

203
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But I cannot answer
the question to know...

204
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...why I make it

205
00:23:59,571 --> 00:24:03,530
not more that to the one of
to know why I live

206
00:24:03,971 --> 00:24:07,520
and I never asked
the question when I climbed.

207
00:24:07,971 --> 00:24:12,522
The question doesn't exist because
my whole being is the answer.

208
00:24:12,971 --> 00:24:16,520
When I am lengthened in
my tent I sometimes think

209
00:24:16,971 --> 00:24:20,520
Reason is that that
do I make it?

210
00:24:21,571 --> 00:24:26,520
Reason is that that I don't
remain here, below?

211
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My ambition is already
relatively satisfied.

212
00:24:32,571 --> 00:24:36,530
But in spite of it all, two
or three times per year...

213
00:24:37,971 --> 00:24:41,520
...I need to measure myself.

214
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If I climb a 3000 m mountain
in the Alps

215
00:24:46,931 --> 00:24:49,729
...I don't have the opportunity for it.

216
00:24:49,971 --> 00:24:52,929
I don't know how
go turn this expedition

217
00:24:53,371 --> 00:24:56,010
...toward the two Gasherbrums,

218
00:24:57,371 --> 00:25:01,523
what will be my inferior 
relation with her.

219
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The very solitude
if we are two...

220
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...pass the one that one can
to feel in an empty piece

221
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or in anonymity
of a big city.

222
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You achieve to what point
you are small, vulnerable.

223
00:25:25,571 --> 00:25:30,520
Sometimes I think that
I don't have anymore need for it

224
00:25:31,571 --> 00:25:36,520
but after several months,
the desire comes back

225
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like one who's hooked and
cannot stop.

226
00:25:47,571 --> 00:25:55,524
Maybe the climbing is
a morbid obsession.

227
00:25:58,571 --> 00:26:02,530
Is what it means and
it is a sensitive question,

228
00:26:02,971 --> 00:26:06,520
that this type of climbing understands
also a research of the death?

229
00:26:08,371 --> 00:26:12,523
I believe that one interprets
as a research of the death

230
00:26:12,971 --> 00:26:16,520
for a lot of activities
that go to the limits.

231
00:26:16,971 --> 00:26:20,520
I never wanted
to kill myself while climbing.

232
00:26:20,971 --> 00:26:24,520
If it has ever happened to me
to have similar thoughts,

233
00:26:24,971 --> 00:26:27,531
it is in completely
different situations

234
00:26:27,971 --> 00:26:30,531
but never while climbing
a mountain.

235
00:26:30,971 --> 00:26:34,520
I am persuaded that someone
who is on a mountain...

236
00:26:34,971 --> 00:26:38,520
...cannot think of death
while he climbs it.

237
00:26:41,571 --> 00:26:45,530
Two Spanish of an expedition
toward the Gasherbrum 2 appear.

238
00:26:45,971 --> 00:26:49,520
After weeks of struggle and
of snow storms

239
00:26:49,971 --> 00:26:52,929
they should have quit right
below the summit.

240
00:26:53,371 --> 00:26:55,931
They were exhausted and cautioned
us of deep snow

241
00:26:56,371 --> 00:26:59,329
and of the avalanches that
raged higher up.

242
00:27:19,571 --> 00:27:23,530
You think that because of your
closeness with your brother,

243
00:27:23,971 --> 00:27:27,122
this one could be
dead to your place?

244
00:27:27,571 --> 00:27:31,530
You would have an attitude
different before his death?

245
00:27:33,571 --> 00:27:36,529
I had a different attitude
before the death in general

246
00:27:36,971 --> 00:27:40,930
because I am mountaineer
and maybe because of his death

247
00:27:41,371 --> 00:27:44,522
even though I sometimes have the
impression is is alive again.

248
00:27:44,971 --> 00:27:47,929
When I see the mountains
that we climbed together.

249
00:27:48,371 --> 00:27:51,124
I made the most difficult climbings
with him.

250
00:27:51,571 --> 00:27:54,529
on the Heiligkreuzkofel
in the Dolomites,

251
00:27:54,971 --> 00:27:58,930
we lived through some extreme
situations for both of us.

252
00:27:59,371 --> 00:28:03,125
Each was was responsible
in the event the other tomb

253
00:28:03,571 --> 00:28:07,530
and this relation was
so intense

254
00:28:07,971 --> 00:28:10,929
that we would not be able to
to have separated again.

255
00:28:11,371 --> 00:28:14,522
When I see these
partitions today,

256
00:28:14,971 --> 00:28:18,520
I are not able to more climb them
without my toes

257
00:28:18,971 --> 00:28:22,520
I have the impression of him
always in life.

258
00:28:22,971 --> 00:28:25,929
I don't have the feeling
that he died to my place

259
00:28:26,371 --> 00:28:29,329
I have the impression that it is
myself that died

260
00:28:29,571 --> 00:28:32,324
during the expedition.

261
00:28:32,771 --> 00:28:35,524
During the whole coming down,
I told myself:

262
00:28:35,971 --> 00:28:38,929
"All is finished, we are not able to
not to go farther."

263
00:28:39,371 --> 00:28:43,125
Before abrupt partitions,
we didn't have a rope.

264
00:28:43,571 --> 00:28:47,120
What was necessary to make?

265
00:28:47,571 --> 00:28:50,529
II had there of the dozens of moments
in the coming down...

266
00:28:50,971 --> 00:28:53,929
...where I was sure that
all was finished.

267
00:28:54,371 --> 00:28:57,124
And back in the valley
after his disappearance

268
00:28:57,571 --> 00:29:00,529
after having looked for him
all night long

269
00:29:00,971 --> 00:29:03,929
and to have waited in vain
until the following day

270
00:29:04,371 --> 00:29:08,125
I didn't worry anymore
whether I was going to die.

271
00:29:08,571 --> 00:29:12,928
During the rest of the journey,
I didn't think anymore

272
00:29:13,371 --> 00:29:16,522
I didn't feel the pain.

273
00:29:16,971 --> 00:29:19,929
I was barefoot.

274
00:29:20,371 --> 00:29:23,920
My swollen feet didn't go back
in my shoes.

275
00:29:24,371 --> 00:29:27,329
Then I fainted and
when I awakened later

276
00:29:27,571 --> 00:29:31,530
I was stunned to see
that I was living.

277
00:29:31,971 --> 00:29:35,930
And, on the return back home,

278
00:29:36,371 --> 00:29:40,523
I had the feeling that my life had
toppled with this tragedy.

279
00:29:41,571 --> 00:29:46,520
How did you announce
the news to your mother?

280
00:30:18,571 --> 00:30:21,529
My mother understood it better
that anyone

281
00:30:22,571 --> 00:30:25,529
and yet it was very hard.

282
00:30:58,571 --> 00:31:01,529
We are going to leave now
and if the weather improves

283
00:31:01,971 --> 00:31:04,929
as the weather report announced it
with one monsoon in the southeast

284
00:31:05,371 --> 00:31:08,124
we should be back
in about one week

285
00:31:08,571 --> 00:31:11,324
so all happens well.

286
00:31:13,371 --> 00:31:16,920
If we don't appear
at the end of 10 days

287
00:31:17,371 --> 00:31:20,522
you will be able to make come
the carriers and to leave.

288
00:31:20,971 --> 00:31:23,929
You have money for the carriers
Rozi Ali knows everything of them.

289
00:31:24,371 --> 00:31:27,920
Money for the journey is to
Rawalpindi to the Miss Davis Hotel.

290
00:31:28,371 --> 00:3`1:31,522
You will find money for the case
of a mission by helicopter.

291
00:31:31,971 --> 00:31:34,929
All is organized and arranged
so that from the moment...

292
00:31:35,371 --> 00:31:39,330
...where you will take
the responsibility of the expedition...

293
00:31:39,771 --> 00:31:43,320
...you can receive
the government's money.

294
00:31:45,571 --> 00:31:48,529
If we don't come back from here
two weeks, it will mean

295
00:31:48,971 --> 00:31:51,929
that we finished under an
avalanche or are dead of weariness.

296
00:31:52,371 --> 00:31:55,522
Don't search for us,
no one will ever find us.

297
00:32:08,571 --> 00:32:12,530
Hans, what should we do
with your personal belongings

298
00:32:12,971 --> 00:32:15,929
...in the tent?
The photos and...

299
00:32:16,371 --> 00:32:19,124
There is not much
to say some,

300
00:32:19,571 --> 00:32:23,530
the best thing would be to throw 
it all in a crevasse.

301
00:32:29,971 --> 00:32:32,929
The morning, according to them, they
were 6 kilometers from us

302
00:32:33,371 --> 00:32:36,522
or one thousand meters over the camp.

303
00:36:02,571 --> 00:36:04,926
They arrived to the summit
of the Gasherbrum 2

304
00:36:05,371 --> 00:36:07,327
...two and a half days later.

305
00:36:11,571 --> 00:36:14,529
Then the weather changed.

306
00:36:14,971 --> 00:36:18,520
The summit disappeared
in a storm of snow.

307
00:37:07,571 --> 00:37:10,324
They arrive to the summit of the Gasherbrum 1.

308
00:37:34,571 --> 00:37:39,122
After 7 and a half days of waiting
anxiously, they emerged from the glacier.

309
00:37:39,971 --> 00:37:43,930
Rozi Ali had spent the last
foru nights praying.

310
00:38:29,571 --> 00:38:31,527
Reinhold, how did
it happen?

311
00:38:40,571 --> 00:38:43,529
The last two days were...
We succeeded!

312
00:38:44,571 --> 00:38:46,527
Could you remove your glasses?

313
00:38:53,571 --> 00:38:56,529
That is himself he passes
these last two days?

314
00:38:57,371 --> 00:39:00,124
We reached the summit
yesterday, in spite of the storm.

315
00:39:00,571 --> 00:39:03,529
We found it in the
middle of the storm.

316
00:39:03,971 --> 00:39:06,929
It was the hardest part.

317
00:39:07,371 --> 00:39:10,124
We underwent winds of
80 to 100 km/h all day

318
00:39:10,571 --> 00:39:13,529
and we hurt
to recover the tent.

319
00:39:13,971 --> 00:39:16,929
The only reason for which
we came down again yesterday

320
00:39:17,371 --> 00:39:20,124
it is because we wanted
to descend by a precise bone.

321
00:39:20,571 --> 00:39:23,529
Yesterday, midway,
it was rotted...

322
00:39:23,971 --> 00:39:26,929
and today also
because it was too hot.

323
00:39:27,371 --> 00:39:30,124
We had indeed
the worst conditions...

324
00:39:30,571 --> 00:39:33,529
...meteorologically conceivable.

325
00:39:33,971 --> 00:39:36,531
If we had not had
as much luck in the beginning,

326
00:39:36,971 --> 00:39:39,326
we would never have succeeded.

327
00:39:39,571 --> 00:39:41,527
Hans, how was that for you?

328
00:39:43,611 --> 00:39:46,842
I think that if you do that
kind of thing often enough,

329
00:39:47,011 --> 00:39:49,366
the best thing to make,
it is to write your will.

330
00:39:50,571 --> 00:39:53,529
We really had
a lot of luck

331
00:39:54,571 --> 00:39:58,530
these last two days,
it was the madness...

332
00:40:00,571 --> 00:40:04,530
I think that no one will
repeat it in this decade.

333
00:40:09,571 --> 00:40:11,926
A hole of water in the glacier
of hundred meter thick.

334
00:40:12,571 --> 00:40:15,529
The temperature is close to the frost.

335
00:40:16,571 --> 00:40:21,520
The risk is that the water that springs
disappears in ice.

336
00:40:22,571 --> 00:40:26,530
If one slips, they would be
irreparably lost.

337
00:40:40,371 --> 00:40:43,522
Reinhold, whereas you sit down
naked and vulnerable before us.

338
00:40:43,971 --> 00:40:46,531
I would like to ask
a simple question:

339
00:40:46,971 --> 00:40:48,529
What was the goal of it all?

340
00:40:48,971 --> 00:40:51,929
I don't know. I never wounder 
why I do it.

341
00:40:52,371 --> 00:40:55,124
It is thus for the other
madness that I committed.

342
00:40:55,571 --> 00:40:59,325
I would not like
to know the answer.

343
00:40:59,571 --> 00:41:02,529
I have the feeling that I can
write on these enormous partitions

344
00:41:02,971 --> 00:41:04,927
...of 3000 or 4000 meter high,

345
00:41:05,371 --> 00:41:08,329
as a professor writes on
a blackboard with a chalk.

346
00:41:08,571 --> 00:41:11,529
But I don't only make
that to write these lines

347
00:41:11,971 --> 00:41:14,929
...of the imaginary lines,
I live these lines.

348
00:41:15,371 --> 00:41:18,124
I also have the impression that after,
these lines remain there

349
00:41:18,571 --> 00:41:22,530
even though I am the only one that can
feel them, see them

350
00:41:22,971 --> 00:41:26,930
that I live them and nobody else
will ever be able to see them

351
00:41:27,371 --> 00:41:30,522
but they are there and them
will remain forever there.

352
00:41:32,571 --> 00:41:36,530
You can think
of more to climb?

353
00:41:37,571 --> 00:41:39,527
To make quite
something else?

354
00:41:40,571 --> 00:41:45,520
Sometimes, I want to stop
the mountain climbing.

355
00:41:45,971 --> 00:41:50,920
and I imagine that I walk...
for years

356
00:41:51,371 --> 00:41:55,125
Maybe forever, with
the yaks, some carriers

357
00:41:55,571 --> 00:42:00,520
from a Himalayan valley
to another.

358
00:42:00,971 --> 00:42:03,929
To deserts, the forests,
without going nowhere

359
00:42:04,371 --> 00:42:07,124
without watching behind,
without watching ahead

360
00:42:07,571 --> 00:42:11,530
while continuing to walk
until the tip of the world.

361
00:42:12,571 --> 00:42:15,131
It is strange, I have precisely
the same dream.

362
00:42:15,571 --> 00:42:18,529
I would like to have a dog,
a husky with two leather bags

363
00:42:18,971 --> 00:42:22,520
and just to walk until
I went everywhere.

364
00:42:23,371 --> 00:42:26,329
Yes, it is passionate

365
00:42:26,571 --> 00:42:29,927
and I imagine that, more and more
in the next years

366
00:42:30,371 --> 00:42:33,920
sooner or later in my life,
I won't look behind.

367
00:42:34,371 --> 00:42:37,522
And I won't go anywhere
in particular, without destination.

368
00:42:37,971 --> 00:42:41,122
I will walk
until the tip of the world.

369
00:42:41,571 --> 00:42:44,529
I don't know
if it is round or flat

370
00:42:44,971 --> 00:42:46,927
for me the world
never finishes

371
00:42:47,371 --> 00:42:49,521
to a certain moment,
him... stop.

372
00:42:49,971 --> 00:42:52,326
It is then, probably,
when my life will stop,

373
00:42:52,771 --> 00:42:54,523
the world will make in the same way.

374
00:43:03,571 --> 00:43:07,007
We would be able to each follow
the traces of the other.

375
00:43:07,571 --> 00:43:10,529
I am delighted with advance.

376
00:43:11,571 --> 00:43:14,529
The climbing of the mountains
is not anymore important for me.

377
00:43:14,971 --> 00:43:16,529
Especially the climbing.

378
00:43:16,971 --> 00:43:20,850
The important thing is to walk,
to walk, to walk...